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Maintenance Tips

Here are some simple tips on ways to maintain your plumbing systems.

Water heaters should be flushed once a year. This helps to control the buildup of mineral deposits. Your water heater will operate more efficiently and this will usually extend the life of the heater.
R/O (reverse osmosis) units should have their filters changed every six months.
The salt level in water softeners should always be higher than the water level.

Call us today and we can send one of our technicians to check your plumbing system! We can perform a tune-up on your air conditioning and heating systems as well (which should be done twice a year).

480-807-8711

EasyWater vs. Softeners

EasyWater is a water conditioner that physically changes the minerals in water to prevent them from forming scale. A traditional water softener replaces calcium and magnesium (known as "hardness") with salt or potassium.

	EasyWater	Water Softener
uses chemicals or salt		X
maintenance free	X
eco friendly	X
requires a drain		X
removes existing scale	X
prevents new scale build up	X
slows new scale build up		X
portable	X
keeps beneficial minerals	X
beneficial to grass and plants	X
wastes water in regeneration		X

(information taken directly from the EasyWater website)

What might cause your toilets to clog frequently?

If you run into problems with your toilet clogging frequently ... start by checking out the other plumbing sources in your bathroom. For example, a slow-draining sink or shower could indicate that you have an obstruction in your main sewer line (such as tree roots or build up). If you haven't noticed slow draining in the bathroom fixtures as mentioned, the source of the clog is probably in your toilet trap. Avoid flushing anything but toilet paper down the toilet! Paper towells, sanitary products, wipees, etc. are not meant to be flushed because they don't disinegrate like toilet paper. Another possibility you can look into if you have small children - is whether or not they have "lost" toys or items small enough to get trapped and block the line.

Sometimes a plunger can create a temporary solution for you but if your clogs are frequent, you probably need a plumber to take a deeper look at the underlying issues. An auger can be run through the line to clear it up,  or if necessary - a technician can advise you on whether or not your toilet needs replaced. Unfortuneatly some toilets are just designed poorly and replacing it might be the answer for your situation.

Emergency Shut-Off Information

Below you will find a diagram of a typical home plumbing system that you can view to help trouble shoot your plumbing problems:



Your house has several separate plumbing systems. Water-supply pipes bring pressurized water from the water utility or a well to your house, where the pipes bring it to sinks, toilets, washers, bathtubs, and related fixtures. Larger pipes drain waste and vent sewer gases in a separate system. Many homes have piped-in natural gas plumbing for gas-burning appliances such as dryers and furnaces. In an emergency, you should know how to turn off these systems quickly before damage ruins your home. The main shutoff valves are located either outside where the main supply enters, or just inside—particularly in cold climates. Turn the valve clockwise to shut it off. Call your utility company if the problem involves a valve between the street and the house.

(information and image taken from http://www.free-build-it-info.com)

10 Year Anniversary Special

General Plumbing Maintenance Tips

Plumbing Maintenance

Water Heaters

There are basically three types of water heaters: gas, electric, and oil. All three tanks operate in a similar manner. When hot water is removed from the tank, cold water enters which activates the thermostat. The water is then heated to a pre-set tem-perature, usually 140 degrees. To save energy and avoid burns consider setting the temperature between 115 and 120 degrees.

Water heaters should be of adequate size to satisfy the needs of the home. A family of four will often find that a forty gallon system is adequate.

Many experts in the industry recommend draining a gallon or two of water from the tank monthly to avoid sludge build-up. (Check your manufacturers recommendations.)

The life expectancy of a water heater is typically 8 to 12 years, although there are exceptions on both sides.

Gas Piping

Any gas leak is a life threatening situation. If you smell gas, all occupants should leave the home immediately and contact the gas company from a neighbor’s house. Do not operate switches, door-bells, telephones or anything else that may cause a spark.

Sump Pump

The sump pump is used to lift storm or drain tile water from a low point in the home to a discharge point that extends away from the building.

The sump pump is electric, therefore susceptible to interruptions or failure. Since power failures often occur during heavy storms this could be a problem. A water driven or battery back-up system should be considered.

Supply Lines

GALVANIZED STEEL: Galvanized steel piping was used almost exclusively prior to 1950. The life expectancy, depending on several conditions, is typically forty to sixty years.

One of the most common problems with this material is corrosion. Rust may accumulate on the inside of the pipe, resulting in poor water pressure and flow.

Eventually the pipe will rust through, usually at the joints first, resulting in leakage. One of the oddities with steel piping as it corrodes, is that it may rust through in one spot and begin to leak. The rust may then form a scab over the leak and seal itself. This generally means that the piping is near the end of its useful life.

COPPER: Copper piping has been used residentially since about 1950 and almost exclusively since the mid 1950’s. The life expectancy of copper piping is indefinite unless unusual water conditions or manufacturing defects are present.

PLASTIC: Most plastic pipe applications have been made by the do-it-yourselfer. The pipe is easy to work with and connections can be made without soldering.

The two most common types of plastic used are: polybutylene (PB) and chlorinated poly vinyl chloride (CPCV). PB piping uses press-on fittings and CPCV uses solvent welded or glued fittings.

Polybutylene piping was removed from the Uniform Plumbing Code in the U.S. in 1989 as an approved water distribution material. In some instances, fitting failure has occurred possibly resulting from faulty installation. In some cases, the piping manufacturer will repair or replace the PB piping at no cost to the homeowner.

Drain Piping

The three most common materials used for drain piping are: cast iron, copper, and plastic.

Cast iron was used prior to the 1950’s. Cast iron piping generally fails in one of two ways. The pipe can rust through, typically in a pin hole pattern or you may notice splitting along the seams (especially horizontally). The life expectancy is fifty years and up.

Copper drain piping was used primarily from the mid 40’s until the mid 1960’s. In residential use it has become rare. This is due to the fact that plastic piping is much less expensive to purchase and install. The life expectancy is indefinite.

Plastic waste piping has been used almost exclusively since the 1960’ s . The piping is inexpensive, easy to work with and, very durable.

Plumbing Maintenance

• Know the location of the main water and gas shut-off valves.
• Periodically inspect the water supply and drain lines for leakage.
• Drain a small amount of water from the water heater per manu-facturer’s recommendations.
• Occasionally inspect the sump pump for proper operation.
• Make sure all plumbing fixtures are firmly secured.
• Have your septic tank checked annually and cleaned if necessary.
• Outdoor faucets should be shut off from the interior and drained.
• Be sure piping in areas such as crawl spaces are protected from freezing.
• Drain sprinkler systems.
• Drain pools and spas.

Cooling Systems Maintenance Tips

Air Conditioning

There are several types of air conditioning systems; They all work on the same basic principle - they move heat from a cool space to a warm space. All the systems take advantage of the basic scientific laws of liquid and gases. When liquids evaporate into gases they absorb a considerable amount of heat. When gases are condensed back into a liquid state, they give off heat. In addition, if the pressure of a gas is increased, the temperature will also increase. Most systems use refrigerants called “Freon” and “Puron”, substances which change state at temperatures and pressures that are well suited for this application.

Air Cooled

Air cooled air conditioning systems typically work together with a forced-air furnace. The systems have two main components, an evaporator unit located in the duct work right above the furnace, and the condenser unit located outdoors. The refrigerant enters the evaporator as a cold liquid and absorbs heat from the house air to boil the liquid and turn it into a gas. The reduction of air temperature causes water in the house air to condense, reducing humidity levels.

The refrigerant, which is now a gas, moves outdoors to the condensing unit. The compressor squeezes the gas into a smaller volume. All of the heat which is contained in the gas is also squeezed into a smaller volume and, consequently, the gas becomes hotter than the outside air. The hot gas then enters the condenser coil. A fan in the condenser unit blows outdoor air across the coil and cools the gas. As it cools it condenses into a liquid. The liquid then passes through a pressure reducing device which causes the temperature of the liquid to drop below that of the house air. The liquid passing through the evaporator coil is evaporated into a gas again, stealing more heat and humidity from the house and the cycle continues.

Recommended Maintenace for Air Cooled

The life expectancy of an air conditioner is based on the failure of the major component of your system - the compressor. The typical life expectancy of a compressor is ten to fifteen years although many units operate well beyond this time. An annual inspection from a heating and cooling specialist and performed maintenance will maximize the life span of your system.

• During the cooling season, periodically inspect the condensate drain line (directly above the furnace) for signs of leakage.
• Be sure to inspect, clean or replace your furnace filter during the cooling season as well as the heating season.
• Make sure the exterior unit remains level.
• Inspect the refrigerant lines for missing or damaged insulation.
• Keep the exterior unit free of debris and vegetation.
• To prevent corrosion, most manufacturers recommend that the unit stay uncovered during the winter months.
• Wall units should be removed for the winter.

Evaporative Coolers

Evaporative cooling systems are most common in the southwest parts of the country.

Evaporative coolers consist of a blower that pulls air from the exterior into the house usually through a wet cooling pad. The moisture on the pad absorbs heat from the air and cools it as it enters the home. A pump draws water out of a tray to keep the pad moist. The water to the tray is generally supplied from the house plumbing system. A float valve is used to regulate the water level.

Two variations of this system include a drip type cooler and a rotary type cooler.

A drip type system allows water to drip into the air flow supplied by the blower. Cooling pads are not used in this system.

The rotary type cooler is much like a humidifier. A screened drum rotates through a tray of water as the blower air passes over the upper part of the rotor.

Recommended Maintenace for Evaporative Coolers

• Periodically clean or replace the cooling pads.
• Electric motors and blower bearings are common failure points. Be alert for any unusual noises.
• Inspect for any leakage or corrosion around the unit.
• Units should be drained and cleaned seasonally.

June Special

The May special from our HVAC department is being extended through June...

*Save up to $2500 this month on qualified Air Conditioning unit replacements!

Call us for details: 480-807-8711

Maintenance Tips for your Bathrooms

Bathroom Maintenance

Toilets

Most toilets are made of vitreous china, although other materials are occasionally used. There are many different styles of toilets, the most common being the two-piece. This type of toilet has two separate components, the bowl and the tank. For the most part, these units are generally inexpensive and replacement parts readily available.

One piece toilets, or siphon action toilets, are usually somewhat expensive. When flushed, the entire bowl surface is covered with water, however a quiet and smooth operation is associated with these units.

Toilet Maintenance

• Check for any signs of leakage at the water supply, the tank connection, the bowl, and the toilet connection to the drain.
• Make sure the toilet is tightly secured to the floor.
• Inspect the flush mechanism for proper operation.
• Be sure the toilet is adequately caulked to the floor.

TIP: Your drain plunger can become a more effective tool by smearing a little petroleum jelly around the edge of the suction cup. The jelly will create a better seal between the drain and the cup.
 

Bathtubs

Bathtubs can be either built-in or free standing. Typically they are made of enameled cast iron or steel, fiberglass or plastic. Some of the problems associated with bathtubs are leaking water supply or drain connections, corrosion, and chipping of the enamel finish.

One option for providing an old tub with a new look is reglazing. This is a relatively new process and the results do not appear to be long lasting. The advantage of reglazing is that it can be done in place and is much less expensive than replacing the fixture.

Another common source of leakage is the intersection where the tub meets the enclosure. The enclosure may be ceramic tile, plastic, or simulated marble. Modern, one-piece fiberglass or acrylic enclosures are also available.

If properly installed, all of these materials are acceptable. To avoid problems, it is critical to keep the area where the tub meets the enclosure well sealed! Loose ceramic tile at the tub rim may be a sign of water penetration.

Bathtub Maintenance

• Occasionally check the underside of the bathtub for any signs of leakage or wood decay.
• Periodically inspect the tub surround for any signs of failure (loose tile, etc.).
• Keep the intersection of the tub and surround well sealed.

Sinks & Faucets

Bathroom sinks can be made of stainless steel, enameled steel, cast iron, vitreous china, plastic, marble, simulated marble, or a variety of other materials. All of these sinks are fairly reliable and each have their strengths and weaknesses. Leakage is the most common deficiency found with a faucet.

Faucets come in a variety of styles and quality. Regardless of the style, leakage is the most common problem discovered.

The popular compression faucet uses a washer to turn off the water when the washer is compressed against a seat. If water leaks out of the faucet this is usually an indication of a deteriorated washer. If water leaks from the handles it usually indicates deteriorated packing. Both of these problems are considered minor and are inexpensive to repair.

Modern faucets use a valve, cartridge, or ball to direct the flow of water. These mixing valves allow the control of hot and cold water, and the volume of water with a single handle.

Sink & Faucet Maintenance

• Periodically inspect under the sink for signs of leakage from the water supply lines and the drain piping.

Ventilation

If a bathroom does not have an operable window an exhaust fan is usually required. Although fans are not required when a window is present, they are beneficial. It is unlikely that a person would open a window every time they took a shower.

Heavy concentrations of moisture in an unvented bathroom can lead to mildew damage on the walls and ceilings.

The exhaust from the fan should discharge to the exterior of the building to prevent excessive moisture build-up in the attic.

Flooring

• Check for loose, cracked or missing ceramic tile.
• Inspect for deteriorated or missing tile grout.
• Be sure the edges of resilient flooring are kept well sealed.
• Keep the joint between the tile and the tub/shower well sealed to prevent water damage to the subfloor.

Slow drains? Here are some possible causes...

Why would your sink, tub, shower or toilet drain very slowly? 

There are several possibilities:

• The vent system could be obstructed,
• The "P" trap may be clogged,
• There could be a partial obstruction in the line between the individual facility and the main drain, or
• The main drain could be partially obstructed.

If only one facility does not drain:

If more than one, but not all of the facilities, do not drain properly:

If no facilities drain properly:

Obstructions in the property service connection can result from:

• Grease buildup,
• A solid object flushed into the drain line,
• A caved in line,
• A swag (dip) in the line that allows solids to settle out and eventually obstruct the line, or 
• Roots in the line that have entered at unsealed joints, slipped joints or cracks in the pipe.

What can you do to help prevent plumbing problems?

• Never flush or dump solid objects, hair, cloth, grease or animal fats into your drain system.
• You should not plant trees over or near the property service connection.

How to Drain a Water Heater

The steps to drain and flush the tank apply to both electric and gas hot water heaters:

1) Turn off the water supply to the heater.
2) Turn off the power to the heater at the main service entrance (circuit breaker or fuse box)/ Turn off the gas at the main supply line.
3) Place a water bucket or attach a garden hose (if a floor drain is available) to the drain valve of the heater which is positioned at the bottom of the heater. Run the other end of the hose into the floor drain.
4) Turn on a hot water faucet to allow air to replace draining water.
5) Open the drain valve and drain a few gallons of water from the heater tank. If you use a bucket to catch the water, turn off the water at the drain valve while emptying the bucket.
6) Close the drain valve and turn on the water supply while leaving a hot water faucet open. When water starts coming out of the faucet, the tank is full.
7) Repeat, as necessary, until water runs clear.
8) Turn on power/gas supply.

If your hot water heater is old, it might be best not to drain it as this might cause problems with leaking at the drain spigot.

If sediment is a serious problem, then the only way to completely rid yourself of this is to install a whole-house water filter.


Info taken from Rustic Girls; http://www.rusticgirls.com/appliances/drain-water-heater.html

May 2010 Specials

*Save up to $2500 this month on qualified Air Conditioning unit replacements.

*Save $250 on water conditioning systems during the month of May only.


Call for details: 480-807-8711

Air Conditioning Q & A

It's that time of year again... ready to turn on your air conditioner? Take note of the answers to these common questions regarding the maintenance and efficiency of air conditioning units!

Q: At what temperature should I set my thermostat?
A: During the summer months, a good temperature setting is between 78 and 80 degrees. Many people think that by turning off the A/C or making a drastic change on the thermostat when they leave the house, they will save money on their electric bill. However - the drastic temperature changes should be avoided because a temperature change of more than about 5 degrees will cause the unit to work much harder. This results in less comfort inside the home, less efficiency for the unit, and not much less (if any) savings on your bill!

Q: How often should I replace my air filters?
A: Replacing (disposable) filters or cleaning (washable) filters once a month is recommended for optimum efficiency and filtration.

Q: What maintenance can I do on my air conditioner, and how often should I hire maintenance?
A: Most importantly, keep your filters changed (or washed) regularly. Outdoor units should also be kept free of debris, landscaping, and weeds (which can grow too close and reduce airflow to the unit). You should hire out maintenance for your unit(s) twice a year. A professional will ensure that your air conditioner is running efficiently, as well as look for any problems that need taken care of before getting out of hand and causing an emergency on a really hot summer day! 

Q: Should I close the registers and doors to areas in my home that are not used regularly?
A: No, because that will disrupt the airflow and cause your A/C system to work harder at distributing air to other areas in your home. By working harder to cool less space, your air conditioner cycles more and becomes less efficient.

Arizona Appliance Rebate Program

(from the Arizona Department of Commerce... http://www.azcommerce.com/Energy/Rebate.htm)

Arizona Appliance Rebate Program to begin at 6:00 a.m. on April 12, 2010. 

Clothes Washers	Energy Star Efficiency Criteria	Rebate Amount
ENERGY STAR Models	MEF>= 1.8; WF <= 7.5	$125
Criteria	MEF>= 2.0; WF <= 6.0	$200
Dishwashers
ENERGY STAR Models	<= 324 kWh/year and <= 5.8 gallons per cycle	$75
Criteria	<= 307 kWh/year and <= 5.0 gallons per cycle	$125
Water Heaters	Varies by type (see below)
Gas-Condensing *	EF> = 0.8	$200
Electric Heat Pump Water Heater	EF> = 2.0	$425
Gas Storage Tank Water Heater	EF> = 0.67	$200
Gas Tankless Water Heater	EF> = 0.82	$300

*The US Dept of Energy and ENERGY STAR have informed us that there are no gas condensing water heaters available for consumers at this time.  Therefore, this category will not have a rebate. Please select from the other water heaters listed.

$44.95 A/C Special